Events

The Balsamic Vinegar

September 2007. I was in Belgrade. The temperature had suddenly fallen from over 35C to a bit above zero. I had never experienced something like that in summer and surely this weather brought something else bad. In fact in a couple of days later Italians had to suffer for the loss of the most famous of them around the world, Luciano Pavarotti. Luciano was not only a great singer of Opera and “tenore”, but a true expression of the best values of Italian lifestyle: playful, friendly, filial and strongly related to his family, smiling, always nice, generous, creative, a great artist, and a lover of food.

He was a great gourmet indeed, and the reason is because he was born in Modena, in one of the best Italian traditional regions for food: Emilia Romagna. My father was from the same area as well, therefore I personally experienced how this region is famous not only for its tortellini, ravioli, lasagne, ragu’, prosciutto and salami, but for grapes and wine as well, a sparking sweet red wine called “Lambrusco”, which youths love to drink.

This area is famous for its long life elisir too: the Balsamic Vinegar. Emilian vineyard cultivators had the great idea of cooking the grape must matured by a long and slow vinegarization process through natural fermentation followed by progressive concentration by aging in a series of casks made from different types of wood and without the addition of any other spices or flavourishing.

Therefore balsamic vinegar is produced, unlike ordinary vinegar which has its origins in an alcoholic liquid, directly form grape juice. Grapes (Trebbiano, white and sugary one, and Trebbiano of Spain, in the area of Nonantola), harvested -as late as possible so as to take the utmost advantage of every last touch of the warmth that the generous nature provides there- in the Modena region in which balsamic vinegar is produced, are crushed and their liquid, the “must”, taking care it never starts its fermentation process and the sugar is transformed into alcoholo, is then filtered and boiled in an open vat over a fire, where it will be brought to a slow noil and then allow to simmer gently until the desired level of concentration is reached (30 to 70% depending on the quality of vintage, sugar level, the practice of the vinegar maker). After filtered and cooling, this liquid is then placed in high quality wooden barrels in which through an oxidation process, it is transformed into vinegar. The barrels are kept in a vinegar loft (“acataia”) where over a number of years the precious liquid inside is lovingly cared for through a special technique involving transfers and topping up. Over many years microbiotic and enzymatic modifications unite to achieve an exceptional balance in fragrance and flavour.

Italy and the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena have a very strict quality control for this DOC (Controlled Origin Denomination) product in order to ensure the consistency and the continuation of certain traditions, with the help of expert tasters, seals, rules, regulations, and procedures. There are many imitations throughout the world, adding caramel to the must, and this is quite a fake or, let’s say a very young and commercial product which cannot add the “traditional” to the label. Two types of vinegars, based on the aging period, are marketed: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (aged minimum 12 years), and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Extra Vecchio (extra old, which is aged minimum 25 years). Usually producers set a different gamma of colours, from green, to blue, to Bordeaux (usually aged less than 3 years), to green seal, blue seal, Bordeaux seal (matured more than 3 years), till gold and platinum, which reach and can go over 25 years.

|traditional Balsamic Vinegar has a dark brown colour, full of warm light; is dense, with a fluid and syruplike consistency (this is why cheap vinegar add caramel inside); his fragrance is distinct, complex, sharp and unmistakeably but pleasantly acid; the flavour is traditional and inimitable sweet and sour, in perfect proportion. To the tastebuds it will offer a full and rich flavour with a variety of shadings and eveolving bursts of new expressions as the mood of carrier changes.

You can try Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, just in drops, on cheese (mozzarella, parmigiano) or on fresh, grilled, steamed or boiled vegetables, as a last refining touch to meat and fish whether they be baked, boiled, broiled, or grilled, and in Saucest Cooks throughout the world achieve remarkable culinary successes through the many creative uses of this extraordinary condiment.

I might add so much more detailed information, but it is now time to eat. I accept the suggestion of my “Big Luciano” (as Pavarotti was called worldwide) and I propose his receipt of Piccantina, together with a salad of the other great Opera composer Gioacchino Rossini (1792-1868). Luciano used to say that “It is always the same instrument that produces pleasure and art in song and in food: the mouth”. And Rossini stated that “eating, loving, singing and digesting are the four acts of the comedy which is life”. As so many Italian artists in music loved food, may it mean that for meticulous Italians eating is like playing or singing a celestial symphony with outstanding instruments like Balsamic Vinegar, in this case?

Insalata alla Rossini

Simple – 15 minutes preparation

Ingredients: mustard, lemon, pepper, salt, e.v. olive oil, vinegar or Balsamic Vinegar, truffle (white or black), lettuce. Quantity according to the taste.

Wash the lettuce and slice the truffle. Pour them in a bowl, then add salt, pepper, lemon and mix; add Balsamic Vinegar, e.v. olive oil and mustard, mix it and serve.

Piccatina alla Pavarotti

Simple – 1 hour

Ingredients: 800 g best end of veal sliced, 100 g butter, 60 g Modenese ham julienned, 25 g chopped parlsey, 1 tablespoon Modena’s Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, flour, salt, pepper as needed.

Flatten the slices of veal slightly, salt (you will use salty cured ham later, so do not exaggerate with the salt at this stage), pepper and flour them.

Heat 80 g of butter in a pan and brown the veal on both sides with a high flame. Drain off the excess butter and place the veal on a hot serving dish. Add the remaining butter to the frying pan and scrape off the cooking residue from the bottom and sides.

Add the julienne ham and cook it over a low flame for a few seconds and then add the balsamic vinegar, Allow the sauce to meld for a few moments and then pour it over the “piccantina”. Sprinkle it with the chopped parlsey and serve it hot.

Stuffed Mussels

Simple – 1 hour

Ingredients: 2 pax: 500g mussels; 1 cup olive oil; 1 cup bread crumbs; 3 teaspoon chopped garlic; 1 tablespoon chopped parsley; 2 tablespoons Modena’s Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.

Heat the mussels in a pan until they are open. Allow them to cool and then remove from shells. Place in a container under olive oil.

Mix the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Add the mussels and mix thoroughly.

Add the balsamic vinegar. Place on a baking sheet and bake in the lowest rack of the oven for 5 minutes at 180C.

Bread

One of the things which make me feel “home sweet home” is when I prepare home-made bread in the weekend. Keeping and refreshing my natural yeast, the mother dough done and fed with simple water and flour, makes me feel like keeping a tradition which started thousands and thousands years ago and passed hand by hand till today.

Starting from the first bakers of antiquity, the Egyptians, to the Romans who were masters in it, with corporations and emperors who used to keep their subjects calm with wide donations of wheat and bread to the population, the famous “panem et circenses”, bread has been the main dish in all of the European tables, especially for the poor. In Italian the term “companatico” means everything which is accompanying the bread during the meal, and bread terms accompany most of Italian vocabulary and idiomatic sentences. There can be literally thousands of different breads, for shape, flour, ingredients. And many variants as well, like focacce, crackers, pizze, and similar varieties.

Repeating the gestures, the care and the particular activities done in order to have artisanal bread, all this makes me feel more in contact with nature and its secrets. Despite its simple ingredients, the process is not easy at all and we must deeply know what is happening while we prepare our bread, from the combination of the proteins of glutenin and gliadin from the wheat which make the gluten, edible to the bacteria of the yeast which change the sugars inside the dough, to the enzyme amylase which creates the gas which will expand the dough and make it so flavourful.

There are so many variables (kind of flour, its strength, water, kind of yeast, etc…) but we must think in terms of fermentation process where the most important variables we should consider are time and temperature. The perfect balance of rising time, proofing time, dough temperature, ambient temperature, the correct amount of leavening, will allow the dough to grow and produce alcohol, acidity, esters and gas for the proper aroma, taste and texture. An excess of fermentation on the other side will make the bread last longer, but makes a cloying aftertaste which many people don’t like.

It is pointless to say that breading is an art, with bakers among which Italians and French are masters. Pre ferments, like Italian “Biga”, or Polish, the autolyse, the more the dough is hydrated, the complete bulk fermentation, the gentle handle of the dough, the proofing, the baking till the crust is dark brown are all single steps which require an expertise and know how gained after scores of repetitions of the process. The goal in baking any bread is to achieve maximum over spring, ideal flavours and texture of the crust with the complete baking of the interior.

We will need to use “grandmother” methods, like poke the loaves, just to see if the indentation springs back very slowly. And add some metal container with water, as the steam and humidity help the baking. Most home ovens aren’t well calibrated and a too hot oven will completely bake the crust before the middle is done, while a cool oven will make the crust thicker and less delicate. Therefore the process is very personal and skilful and the conditions might change from one place to another.

I normally need half a day to refresh my natural yeast, then another 12 hours to prepare the biga, and another half a day to prepare the dough which will go into crunchy aromatic bread. Time is working for me and I just need to take care of the proper steps. The result will be a fragrant loaf which I can cut and enjoy with a slice of Italian cheese, or to use for my “scarpetta”, cleaning the leftover of the tomato sauce, after a nice plate of spaghetti!

Crusty Loaf with Biga method

This is one of the possible thousands of recipes for preparing bread. If you simply change a bit the rate of the ingredients, the quantity of water, the timing, you will have a different bread. You can try it as well.

Serves 4 Prep 2 days (for fermentation; real preparation 1.5 hours) – EASY

Ingredients:

For Biga

50 g natural yeast, or 1 bag of industrial yeast

200 g flour 0 (or bread flour)

150 g water (temperature 32C),

For Dough for bread

180/190 g water

100 g flour 0 (or bread flour)

200 g flour 00 (or plain flour)

100 g wholemeal flour

½ table spoon honey

20 g salt

Directions:

Mix together the natural yeast (or the industrial, normally the industrial yeast needed is 1/3 of the weigh of the natural one) with 200 g flour 0 at ambient temperature, add the water and keep it under a wet cloth for 12 hours. It will form a sticky dough. This is a Biga. I can do it in the evening.
Next morning I add 180/190 g of water to the Biga, ½ table spoon of honey and whisk. Then I add 100 g bread flour, 200 g plain flour and 100 g of wholemeal flour with 20 g of salt.
I manipulate it for 15 minutes, put it on the layer which I will use for baking on a baking paper, and keep it proofing for at least 5 hours.
The dough is more than doubled. I put some water inside the oven and preheat at 180C. I can bake it at oven temperature of 180C for 15 min, then 170C for 45min. Once baked I take it out and let it rest before cutting.

Tips:

You can add extra virgin olive oil to the dough, as Tuscan bakers use to do. The best surface for manipulating the dough is a wooden surface.

Per Serving XXX kcals, protein XXXg, carbs XXXg, fat XXXg, sat fat XXXg, fiber XXXg, sugar XXXg, salt XXXg

Mediterranean Focaccia

Very similar to bread, Focaccia is quite simpler and can have different content of water inside which will make the interior softer or thicker according to the personal taste.

Serves 4 Prep 1 day (for fermentation; real preparation 1.5 hours) – EASY

Ingredients:

1 kg bread flour

0.5 litres of water (till 0.7)

1 bag industrial yeast or 50 g natural yeast

20 ml extra virgin olive oil

50 g black/ green olives, finely chopped

Rosemary (chopped), oregano

20 g salt

Directions:

Mix flour with olives and chopped herbs. Add industrial yeast, water and mix well. Add olive oil and salt and pour on a rectangular thick layer (pour some olive oil on the surface of the layer; the dough will ferment, therefore the layer must contain the dough once doubled or tripled in size). Keep it for 12 hours under a wet cloth at room temperature.

Preheat the oven at 180C then put the layer for 1 hour at 100C. Control it time by time.

Serve it warm.

Tips:

You can have different height for focaccia, as well as different softness depending on the amount of water. Once you pour the dough in the layer don’t touch it anymore in order to keep the gas inside. Check the focaccia in the oven, as temperatures might vary from oven to oven. You can add more olive oil according to the personal liking.

Per Serving XXX kcals, protein XXXg, carbs XXXg, fat XXXg, sat fat XXXg, fiber XXXg, sugar XXXg, salt XXXg

Grissini with Ham

In this recipe we use the dough for bread, then give it the shape of the “grissini” the original Piedmont bread, done with different shapes. It is a dialectal term and means a long and thin bread, born in the XVI century probably at the Royal Court of Savoia. There are many varieties, from the finger shape, to the arm shape. Industrial “grissini” are an usual starter available in the Italian restaurants together with bread.

Serves 4 Prep 40 min – EASY

Ingredients:

500 g bread dough

30 slices of ham

2 table spoons of olive oil

1 egg

20 g flour

Directions:

Put the flour on the surface, then lay the dough in at the height of 1.5cm. Brush it with the egg.

Cut the dough in many stripes of 1.5 cm width, then take them and twist twice.

Put the “grissini” on a layer with olive oil, preheat the oven at 210C and bake them for 10/15 min till they are golden.

Take the “grissini” out, roll the slices of ham around them and serve.

Tips:

If you want your “grissini” to look better, before baking you can brush the part which will not be covered by the ham with a solution of water and oil. Therefore this will appear as a trans lucid hang.

Per Serving XXX kcals, protein XXXg, carbs XXXg, fat XXXg, sat fat XXXg, fiber XXXg, sugar XXXg, salt XXXg

 

Estate Italiana! Italian Summer!

Finally I am in Italy, spending my Summer time between my home on the top of the Belvedere hill of Santa Marinella, 60 km far from Rome, and the Capital of Italy. August is for the Italians the holy month for vacation, because of temperature that, especially in the Centre and the South, can even reach 45C. Worthless to say that whoever can do it, they will take a break and go to the seaside or to the mountains for some cool weather. I took the opportunity to return home to share the pleasures and burdens of being with my family of origin: all together, including dogs, parrots, fish, turtles, and one guinea pig. As a typical Italian family, we are all together with my mother, my brothers and several grandchildren who happily jump on the belly of their uncle who see once a year and miss so much… From the terrace you can admire a unique panorama 50 km of coastline and blue sea, surrounded by pine trees and Mediterranean scrub. I have before me the tranquil Tyrrhenian Sea, the sea of the Western Italian coast, which is part of the larger Mediterranean Sea, the Mare Nostrum of the Romans. The sea, in its ambivalent nature of storm and calm, has always represented much for the peoples of the peninsula. Invasions, the fear of the unknown, trade, exchange of experiences with other cultures and peoples. The Mediterranean Sea is a large “salt lake”, which has arisen in recent times and huge amount of water still enters through the pillars of Hercules. That will increase the level of 1.5mm every hundred years. As such, its salinity -due to reduced evaporation relative to the surface of the water- and its depth -shallower than the one of the oceans- mean that its fish fauna is nourished especially near the coasts or in relatively shallow water or rock. This makes the taste of fish stronger, special high-quality, and pleasing to the palate. The Japanese are buying in Sardinia the famous yellow-fin tuna and the lobsters of Alghero are tasty, as well as the blue fish. This wealth of fish, combined with the geography of Italy, a peninsula with two large islands, Sardinia and Sicily (and up to the pre-Napoleonic time even Corsica), and a myriad of smaller islands, becomes a basic part of the healthy “Mediterranean diet” and enriches the already very numerous gastronomic repertoire of our country with a myriad of recipes based on fish, molluscs and crustaceans. Here are just a few recipes, while I taste a very simple and tasty dish of fried fish surrounded by the colours of the summer sun! I have some simple choices, with blue fish or typical products, rather than the commercial fish such as swordfish can be. Blue fish has a lot of Omega 3 and is a healthier choice than big fish, which has among other things high levels of toxic mercury all over the oceans, but fresh sardines of course are not easy available in South East Asia. You might try the following recipes with the fish available here. For this reason I include a simple appetizer with the “bottarga” and tuna from Sardinia, just to remind you of the uniqueness of the ingredients but the simplicity in the flavours of the cuisine of Italy.

Bruschetta with tuna and bottarga – The roe is produced mainly in Sardinia and Sicily, thanks to the contacts that both islands have had with the Arabs. The roe is a technique of maturing eggs (mostly …) and has ancient origins, dating back to the Phoenicians, the “Sea Peoples” who would live in Sardinia in ancient times. This recipe comes from the fact Sardinia. Since it will not be easy to find homemade bread is recommended Sardinian bread.

Ingredients for 4 people: 250 gr of stale homemade bread; 250 grams of tuna in oil; 2 cloves of garlic; 1 sprig of parsley; grated bottarga; ½ glass of white wine; extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.

Directions: Cut the bread (which should be 2 or 3 days before) thick slices and let it brown in the oven; heat a few tablespoons of oil in a frying pan, sauté the garlic cloves peeled and crushed well and then add the drained tuna and continue to cook until the tuna you will not be softened. At this point add the roe, wet with wine, let it evaporate, stirring constantly and flavored with a few leaves of parsley, salt and freshly ground black pepper fresh. At this point, remove the slices of bread from the oven (they should still be warm), place them on a large platter, spread them still warm with the sauce and serve immediately.

Sarde in Tortiera: Sardines tortino; a typical recipe from the South, combining fish with vegetables, grated and baked for a crusty pleasure.

Ingredients for 4 people: 700 gr fresh sardines (you can use other small fish, or sardines in oil as well); 2 cloves of garlic; 1 bunch parsley; 20 gr bread crumbs; 2 medium potatoes; 2-3 plum tomatoes (or equivalent, just dry them with salt); 1 medium white onion; extra virgin olive oil; salt; pepper.

Description: Clean the sardines, take away their heads and open them like a book, wash, dry, season with salt and pepper and close them. Peel the potatoes and cut into thin slices, cook in boiling salted water for 5 minutes, drain. Thinly slice ​​the plum-tomatoes in the sense of length, finely chop garlic and parsley. Coat a pan of 18 cm in diameter with a moistened disc of baking paper. Brush it with oil, put a layer of potatoes on the bottom, half of the sliced ​​onion, a layer of tomatoes, season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Put have half of the sardines in a radial pattern over the tomatoes, sprinkle with half of the chopped parsley and garlic, with the breadcrumbs and a drizzle of olive oil. Repeat the layers with potatoes, onions, tomato; salt and season with a little oil and most of the remaining garlic and parsley, and bake at 180C for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, place the last layer of sardines, drizzle with the olive oil and the leftover of garlic and parsley, mixed with a tablespoon of breadcrumbs. Add a few slices of the remaining onion and cook 5 minutes under the hot grill. Let it stand 10 minutes before serving.

Squids with aubergines: something different, and hot, from usual fried squids.

Ingredients for 4 people: 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped; 2 tablespoons olive oil; juice of 1 lemon; 2 teaspoon sweet chilli sauce; 2 small red chillies, seeded and chopped; 700 gr baby squid, cleaned, tubes and tentacles separated; vegetable oil for brushing; 2 medium aubergines (eggplants), very thinly sliced; 115 gr rocket leaves; lemon wedges, to serve.

Description: In a bowl, mix together garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, chilli sauce, and chillies. Stir squids into marinade, cover and leave to marinate for 2 hours. Heat a griddle until smoking and brush with oil. Grill aubergine slices in batches for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a warm oven to keep warm. Remove squids from marinade and reserve the marinade. Heat griddle until searing hot and fry squids for about 20 seconds (depending on your grill) on each side, then transfer to a plate. Put marinade into a pan and heat gently. Arrange aubergine (eggplant) slices on 4 warm plates. Pile the squids on top and spoon over a little marinade. Surround each portion with a ring of rocket leaves. Serve at once, with lemon wedges.

Eating in Rome!

Whenever I go back to my city, I cannot wait to visit my restaurant mates, or friends, who will cook for me such delicious, yummy, and sometimes heavy food, that my wife is always scared that I come back with 10 kg more, as it happened last year.

The problem is that Italians, and not only Italians, cannot resist to Italian food, and Romans cannot resist to the temptation of the Roman cuisine once we are back in town…

Roman cuisine is authentic and traditional from the appetizers to the desserts, and full of history and anecdotes. The primary aim of the recipes was to provide tasty and hearty dishes from less expensive ingredients, which were filling after a hard day of labour. In fact some classic traditional appetizers can serve as a quick and complete meal for those of us who lead more sedentary lives. Fried food triumphs in appetizers; this simple cooking method, which requires some attention, gives rise to some of Roman cuisine’s best recipes. Stringy mozzarella is another characteristic ingredient that makes these simple dishes even better. The irresistible bruschetta is a truly frugal dish. In olden days it was only considered a snack for those who worked outside: farmers, shepherds, woodsmen… It remains a perfect choice for beginning a meal, and it is great accompanied by a glass of wine from the nearby Castelli Romani hills. Traditional Roma first courses absolutely mirror the people of Lazio’s passion for traditional and intense flavours. They include hearty soups (chick peas, or fava beans) and stews –classics based on legumes or highly original dishes such as the unusual but absolutely tasty combination of pasta and broccoli with rayfish- as well as appetizing quick pasta dishes or pasta topped with amazing meat sauces. Amatriciana, Carbonara, Gricia, Cacio, Arrabbiata, e Pepe are among these recipes. There is also abundance of delicate flavours, such as “fettuccine alla papalina” or “gnocchi di semolina”, butheary ingredients are definitely more common, such as cured pork (guanciale, which is similar to lard, bacon, pork jowl), the intense flavour of garlic and hot pepper, and above all the final touch is provided by sharp pecorino romano cheese –currently protected by a DOP (Protected Origin Denomination) label- which has been produced in the Agro Romano since the days of the Roman Empire. The second courses give an idea of “the way Rome was”. The pastoral countryside, subject of so many paintings from the nineteenth century, is still alive in the rooted tradition of suckling lamb, which is prepared in many different ways (a typical holiday treat). Roman cuisine reflects the vivacity and colour of Testaccio, the home of Rome’s market and the historic slaughterhouse, which gave rise to the widespread use of the famous “fifth quarter”: the less esteemed meats (like oxtail) were destined to the table of the commoners, who put them to good use considering that these dishes are still favourites. The seafood cuisine is not as plentiful, but it should not be forgotten that once Rome was separated from the sea by forests and swamps, which somewhat slowed the development of seafood dishes. However, the seafood dishes that top traditional menus are appreciated for their flavour and creativity –reinterpreting the characteristic of Roman cuisine in a mariner’s key. The side dishes reflect the true specialties of Roman countryside: artichokes, broccoli, fava beans, fennel, salad tomatoes, zucchini, indivia, chicory, and many other varieties of specific Romanesque breed vegetables which are truly unique, enriching the local cuisine with excellent side dishes. What we can say about the famous “puntarelle”? The plant is also sold in other areas as Catalogna chicory, but Rome invented a new way of using it. Instead of using the leaves, in Rome they are used as crunchy sprouts, which are cut with mastery so that they curl and then they are topped with an irresistible dressing. It is a truly original idea and an absolutely delicious side dish. Another element that characterizes Roman side dishes are the tasty kosher specialties that can be found in the historic Jewish quarter “Ghetto”, and which have always adorned Roman tables.

With such a rich variety of food, Roman cuisine does not leave much room for high-toned patisserie: pastries are not its most creative expression. Desserts are somewhat limited since they are mostly made up of holiday tets for Carnival, the Feast of St. Joseph (its famous bigne, bot fried or in oven), or even Christmas, such as the complicated “pangiallo romano” which is difficult to find these days. By the way bigné, castagnole, ricotta cheese pie, frappe (crispy carnival fritters), and maritozzi, which match so nice with cappuccino, don’t leave us alone. Few and essential, but sincere: they are worth trying for their simplicity which is always a pleasure. A bit as we Romans are. Therefore when in Rome do as the Romans do and “mangiamo” (let’s eat) with pleasure these wonderful dishes. Or, in Roman dialect, “magnamo, all’ombra der Colosseo o der Cupolone” (let’s eat, covered by the shadow of Colosseum or St Peter’s Dom)!

Crostini with mozzarella and anchovies (appetizer)

Easy – 30 minutes – the original recipe for this delicious appetizer called for “provatura” instead of mozzarella. “Provatura” which is the delicious cheese created before making mozzarella, used to be available in the Lazio and Campania regions. In Italian, “prova” means to try or test, and it was the portion of the cheese they extracted to test whether the consistency and grain of the curd was ready to form the mozzarella. It is not easy to find unless you know an artisan cheese maker.

Ingredients: 250 gr of fresh mozzarella; 100 gr of butter; 12 slices of Italian bread cut into squares (or circles) measuring minimum 5 cm per side; 8 anchovies, rinsed of salt; milk, salt, pepper to taste.

Directions: Cut the mozzarella into 12 thick slices and dress them with salt and pepper. Alternate slices of bread and mozzarella on skewers and then bake at 200C. in the meanwhile melt the butter in a pan on a low heat and sauté the anchovies, mixing well, until they fall apart. If necessary add a little milk in order to form a cream. When the bread is crunchy and the mozzarella has melted, remover the skewers from the oven and cover them with the anchovy cream. Serve hot.

Fettuccine alla papalina (first dish, literally “Papal/Pope-style”)

Easy – 30 minutes – This dish has historic origins. It was perfected in the 30sby a cook from the working class Borgo neighbourhood of Rome to satisfy the palates of Cardinal Pacelli and then Pope Pius XII. That is how the “aristocratic” version of the more typical pasta alla carbonara was born. The ingredients are richer and more refined, and the flavour is more delicate. Purists say that the original recipe did not contain peas, but they are a nice colourful addition and they have been a common ingredient for some time.

Ingredients: 400 – 500 gr of fresh egg fettuccine; ½ onion finely chopped; 200 ml of cream; 100 gr of salt-cured ham cut into chunks; 3 eggs; 200 gr of fresh or frozen peas; 100 gr of grated parmigiano cheese; butter, salt, and pepper to taste.

Directions: Melt the butter in a pan over a medium flame. Add the onion and ham, and after a few minutes add the peas, salt and cook for 10 minutes, then add the cream and cook for another 5 minutes. Turn the stove off, add the beaten eggs, the parmigiano cheese, and delicately mix all together. In the meantime boil the fettuccine, drain and pour it into the pan together with the topping. Stir and top with fresh grated pepper before serving.

Abbacchio scottadito (second course, crispy lamb ribs, literally “burning your finger”)

Easy – 30 minutes – The excellence of simplicity. The success of this dish is all in the quality of the lamb (in Rome, suckling lamb is generally used). In Italian, scottadito means “burn your finger”, because these tasty ribs are irresistible to eat with your fingers the moment they are removed from the flame… which inevitably leads to the proverbial burnt finger!

Ingredients: 1 kg of lamb ribs; lemons; extra virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste.

Directions: Flatten the ribs with a meal mallet, brush them with oil on both sides and add salt and pepper. If you like herbs you can also add a little tarragon. Cook them on a grill over a high flame (preferably over a charcoal fire) until they are crispy. You can also cook them on a very hot griddle for about 4 minutes per side. Serve with wedges of lemon as soon as they are ready.

Carciofi alla Giudia (side dish, Jewish style artichokes)

Easy – 30 minutes – This is the most famous dish of the Roman Jewish Community. The recipe owes its success to its simplicity, which highlights the qualities of the artichoke to the outmost. Artichokes are frequently used in traditional Roman specialties.

In order to properly clean them, before beginning it is better to rub your hands with lots of lemon juice. This helps keep them from staining and it will make them easier to clean. In Asia artichokes are quite rare, and you can find prepared ones, by the way if you buy your artichoke with the stem remove any leaves which have thorns, detach the “head” of the artichoke, called the “capolino”, and throw away all of the stem except the most tender part (2-3cm). The outer leaves of the artichoke, called “brattee”, are hard and fibrous and they need to be removed. To do this, slip a knife under each leaf and pull it away from the stem until it detaches. To reach the heart of the artichoke, you need to take off at least two or three layers until you reach the thinner and lighter coloured leaves. You also need to cut off the tip of the artichoke, which is the hardest part. To prepare the stem of the artichoke, peel away the fibrous exterior leaving only the central core (which is lighter and tenderer). After having cleaned the artichokes, they should be kept in water and lemon juice until you are ready to cook them.

Ingredients: 6-8 cleaned Romanesque or Cimaroli artichokes (other varieties work fine as well; lemons; lots of extra virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste.

Directions: Soak the artichokes in water and lemon for around ten minutes, drain and allow them to dry. Then beat the artichoke face down on a counter top to open the flower. Heat oil on a medium flame until it boils and then place the artichokes into the oil with the flower side down by holding them on the bottom of the pan with a fork until they are crispy. At this point, turn the artichokes upside down and let then cook until the heart is soft. Drain the artichokes and lay them on a paper towel to dry. Top with salt and pepper; they are best served piping hot.